How to: Paint a Cute Character in Paint Tool Sai - a Digital Painting and Inking Tutorial
In this tutorial, I'll be teaching you a bit about my painting technique and show you how to go through the process of paint a cute character in Paint Tool Sai.
This Tutorial will be a nice primer on how to break down a simple drawing into parts if you're new to digital art, as well. Don't worry if you're new to the program- you can adapt any of the techniques to your skill level. If you're an expert- awesome! If you're totally new- no worries!
Let's get started with the tools you'll need.
Step 0 : The Tools of the Trade
To complete this project you'll need:
And that's it! Digital art is great because you need very limited materials to work on all variety of projects.
If you don't have a graphics tablet, you can theoretically use a mouse or track pad to draw (a lot of people do!) But since some of the techniques that make digital art enjoyable and economical rely on pressure-sensitivity (ie: having your lines 'feather out' and appear ink-like), I wouldn't recommend it. That being said- do whatever works for you!
And with that- onto the painting!
Step One - Setting Up Your Canvas.
The first thing that you'll need to do when you open Paint Tool Sai is to set up your canvas. This is where you will be painting and drawing.
I'll be using a 4 by 6 inch canvas, but you can choose a smaller or larger size if you prefer.
To ensure the image isn't pixellated, set the Resolution to 300 DPI.
That's all! Onto sketching.
Step Two - Sketching your character.
Once your canvas is set up, the first step is to sketch your character.
Following the directions above, create a layer called "sketch" and then set up a soft brush for sketching.
Your sketch does not have to be perfect, and you can reference an image on paper or from the internet if you need pose inspiration.
Create a rough sketch showing the pose, basic features, etc. Don't worry about cleaning up the sketch, because we'll be erasing it and tracing over it later, anyways. Make sure you have all of the important parts of the character drawn before moving on.
Here is my basic sketch of my character. Once your character is sketched, you're ready to move onto the next step.
Step Three- Inking your Character.
It's time to move onto inking your drawing. This will 'clean up' the drawing that you sketched a moment ago and provide a nice, clean, solid base for us to flat color the image later on.
Following the guide above, reduce the Opacity of your sketch layer to 10%. Then, create a new layer called "Inks"- this is where you will use the ink pen brush described above to ink your character.
Unlike with your sketch, you want your inks to be as clean as possible.
You will likely have to press 'undo' a lot as you ink. Don't worry! Re-drawing a line a few times is totally normal and will make your finished image much better.
Continue inking until your character is totally done!
Then, you can turn 'off' your sketch layer and admire your inks.
I personally think that the next steps are much more fun, so get ready to flat color next.
Now that your inks are all done, you are ready to flat color your character.
Step 3.5 - Using the Magic Wand tool to color more easily.
I believe that in a lot of cases, artists should work smarter, not harder.
With the magic wand tool- you can work a little smarter while coloring your artwork in Sai.
If you did a good job with your inks and used very solid lines, you should have an easy time with this. Instead of "coloring in between the lines", you can get a helping hand from Paint Tool Sai.
First, make a new "color" layer- this is where all of your coloring and shading will go in this painting. Next- use the Magic Wand tool (as seen above) to select a section of your "Inks" layer.
You must be currently working on the inks layer. Highlighted areas will turn blue, and you can select as many areas as you'd like (ie: all of the skin.).
Once you have the areas selected, go back to your "color" layer and begin coloring. You won't have to work to stay inside of the lines, and it makes the whole flat coloring process take a couple of minutes instead of hours.
If you're having trouble selecting areas: You have almost certainly made a tiny mistake and not totally enclosed an area in your "inks'" layer. Go back to your inking layer and fix up your lines until they're tidier and the magic wand tool works properly.
Step Four - Flat Coloring
Now it's time to 'flat color' our painting!
At this point, we'll only be putting down flat colors appropriate to each area of the character. No shading!
Please note that I added a lilac background layer by placing a layer behind my character and bucket filling it with lilac. I prefer having a non-white background behind my character as a I flat color, because it makes it easier to avoid 'missing spots' that you have to fix later.
Using the selection technique highlighted above, use the brush shown above to begin filling each section of your character on your "color" layer. You can vary the brush size as much as you'd like- don't try to stick to one brush size.
Don't color in your inks layer! Check every so often to make sure you aren't accidentally doing this, because it can be pretty problematic later on.
Be creative with your colors! Try to add some bright and unexpected colors to your image. It will make the finished painting more interesting. For example, I added pink eyelashes.
Once you're done, it's time to move onto the fun part- shading and highlights.
Once your character is all flat-colored, you can move onto shading and highlights.
Step 4.5 - Color the Lines
Stop right there! I have one more step before we shade.
I am pointing out this step because a lot of people aren't aware of this basic feature of Sai and waste a lot of time drawing colored lines.
Coloring your lines adds a lot of depth to your character, and we can always adjust the color of the lines at the end to make more sense with the shading that we decide to do.
For now- just create a new layer called "Ink Mask" directly above your "Inks" layer. Then, check the box that says "Clipping Group" directly above the layer panel. Now your "ink mask" layer is grouped with your inks layer.
You can randomly scribble any colors on this layer, and they'll mask over top of your inks automatically and make the inks that color.
For now, I just my lines pink and blue, but you can experiment however you'd like. Easy peasy!
Step Five- Shading and Highlights
Here it is- time to shade and highlight.
I do my shading and highlighting a bit different than some artists (and a lot different than the usual technique that Photoshop artists use), but I swear it's easy, dynamic and enjoyable.
It's a little scary because I paint in one layer (no hundreds of layers to disguise your mistakes), but it's difficult to mess up as long as you take things slow and think ahead. Once you know the basic technique, you can adjust your brushes all you like!
I paint using two brushes- a "painting" brush used to put down new colors, and a "blending" brush used to blend those colors together.
That's it! Think of it as putting some paint down with one hand and then using the other hand to smear it around and blend it together. With this technique you can achieve 'soft' looking shading without tons of layers.
You just need to keep switching back between the brushes when you want to add new colors, or blend them together. It's very flexible and easy.
Put down color (shading) with brush A:
Then Blend the colors with Brush B to create a smooth effect:
Keep repeating this process with each section of the character. Make sure you're still using the magic wand tool to stay inside of the lines (it makes everything so much easier).
Below you can see a few more images of how I work though this process.
Recolor the lines:
In between these images, I went back to my "ink mask" layer and changed the color of my lines. Adding some white lines near the edges of her hair, and some darker lines on areas that I wanted to emphasize helped to bring the image together.
Once you do that, you're almost done!
Almost there! Once your character is shaded, you can move onto adding highlights and a simple background.
Step 5.5 - Shinies!
This step is always very simple and satisfying- adding "shinies" or bright highlights to the eyes, hair and wherever else needs them.
Make a new layer called "Highlights" on top of all of your layers, change the Mode to Screen (this makes the whites combine gently with the layers below), and change the opacity to 70%.
Grab a white brush and add a few specks of light to the eyes and hair. This helps to make the eyes seem more vivid and bright.
Step 6 - Add a simple background
We're almost done!
I always like to add a simple background because it adds a lot to the composition, and is quite easy if you're using the paint and blend technique that we used for our shading.
Using the exact same techniques we used above, create a new layer called "background" and create a simple background.
Apply color with your painting brush, and then blend it together with your blending brush. I chose a beach because it doesn't have a lot of hard edges and is easy to paint, but you can choose anything!
If you're having trouble making your background colors look 'right', look up a google image of the kind of setting you want to paint, and copy the color palette. It can be hard to visualize what color exactly make sense for a setting, so this helps a lot.
Once I was done with my background, I threw a few white highlights on another layer to add some atmosphere. You, however, are all done!
Step Eight - Done!
You did it!
Thanks for checking out my tutorial and for supporting my art just by viewing my website- I hope you were able to get in some decent digital art practice.
If you drew something using this tutorial, please let me know- I'd love to see.
Check out my finished painting below as well as well as a review of the steps that we used.
If you have a suggestion for a new article, please comment below- I love hearing your ideas.
Your support keeps me going- thank you so much!
Keep an eye out for more tutorials and content like this every Friday at 5PM MDT. Browse the rest of the site for my portfolio, my online shop and to find my social media links (I post every single day!). Thanks for your support!
Since I'm all done with Lesser Beasts for awhile, I've decided to make a quick step-by-step post of how I created a recent watercolor painting titled "bugs"!
I'll show a few images of the different steps and give you some quick watercolor tips, as well.
Step 1: Pencils
I start out by penciling the scene that I'd like to paint. I just use either a mechanical pencil or a 3B pencil at this stage, and I try to be fairly general about my pencil drawing. I'll be fixing up a lot of the mistakes during the inking phase, so I worry more about the overall composition and the expressions of the characters.
For this particular painting, I measured a small margin around the outside using a ruler, and planned to leave this area white. This could be done more easily with masking tape, but I like to manually leave a white margin.. it keeps me on my toes in more complicated paintings, like this one.
step 2: inking & adding shadow guides with pencil.
Once I'm happy with my initial pencil drawing, I use a couple of ink pens to define the outlines. For this painting, I used a brown 01 micron pen, and a brown 05 micron pen for some of the 'filled' areas. I wanted to keep my lines very subtle and thin, so I decided to not use black pens or any larger pen sizes.
After I completed my inking, I erased all of my initial pencil lines. Then, I took my mechanical pencil and drew in guides for where I wanted all of the shadows to be in the finished painting. I also did this with areas like the dragonfly's wings where I wanted there to be a pattern in the finished painting. Most of these lines will be pretty subtle once I actually paint the image, since they sit on the edge where a light and dark wash will meet each other.
You don't HAVE to pencil your shadow guides (in fact, most of the time I don't do this either), but it can help you accomplish a more clean, cel-shaded look in your painting, if that's what you're going for.
Step 3: Painting the characters + foreground
I won't go too far into painting technique here (if you'd like to learn more about how I paint, check out this step by step tutorial). But, I used a set of 12 pelikan opaque watercolor paints for this painting. This was a very time-consuming painting because I had to be very careful about keeping the colors separate and fairly solid. I slowly worked my way through the foreground characters, filling each area of color up individually.
Again, during this time I was using my pencil lines as guides for where to put the shadows, so unfortunately there isn't a lot of technique to describe in this piece. Just super time-consuming.
Step 4: Filling the background + final touches
The last things that I completed on this painting were the background, and some touch-ups on the rest of the painting. I tried to keep the background a bit lighter than the foreground for the sake of contrast, but this was difficult since the painting is set at night. Luckily, since the painting itself was fairly tedious for this piece, I didn't have a lot of corrections to make one I was finished.
Here is the final watercolor painting after being cleaned up and scanned. I hope you enjoyed seeing my process images. Check out this tutorial if you'd like more information on how to actually watercolor paint.
Thanks again for reading, and have a bug-tacular day!
Since I just launched a whole new Jewelry section on my Etsy Shop,
I've decided to do this Geeky Perler Bead Earring tutorial. Obviously, these basic steps can apply to any kind of perler bead earring, geekiness not required!
Below I will explain how I make my own assortment of perler earrings to sell online and at conventions, and how you can make your own custom earrings at home. So, let's get started!
Part 1: Your supplies
- A variety of Perler Beads
You may pre-purchase the beads in the exact colors that you will need, or buy a mixed bucket. For beginners I recommend this small mixed bucket.
- Perler tweezers
These will help you pick up your perler beads, they make things a lot easier, especially if you have big hands. You can get them here.
- A Household Iron
Any kind will do.
- Perler Ironing Paper
This is basically just wax paper, but be warned, some cheap wax paper will have a slight paper coating that will bond with the plastic of the perler beads and become impossible to remove. You can get the official perler paper here. It is pretty much infinitely reusable so I'd say it's worth grabbing a sheet or two online or at your local craft store.
- A Perler Peg-Board
I usually use a small one if I'm just making earrings. There are a variety of styles of pegboards that allow you to create different sorts of patterns, so I'd recommend picking up a small multi-pack such as this.
- One or two sets of small pliers
I personally don't use jewelry-specific pliers, but you will be best off with two sets of pliers. Really, any pliers that have good hold and feel good in your hands will work, there is no need to get anything fancy.
- 2 Earwires
One for each ear. Try to purchase Nickel-free earwires. There are many places to get them, but if you just need a few you will be fine purchasing them from your local craft store.
- 2 6mm Jump Rings
These will be used to bridge the gap between the perler creation and your ear wire. You can buy them at most local craft shops.
Part 2: Choosing your design
This portion of the project is fairly self-explanitory,
you should research images of a character or object that you'd like to make,
and then plan your design however you see fit. If you'll be improvising a design from a photo, you may want to do a basic sketch before you begin. If you are simply working from a sprite or a low-pixel image, you will simply copy this design using perler beads.
Once your design is ready, you can set up your workspace.
Part 3: Selecting beads and preparing your workspace
Before you begin placing your design on your pegboard, you may pre-sort your perler beads so that you have the colors that you will need in front of you. Get your tweezers ready, and start warming up your iron to medium heat, if you'd like.
Next comes making the design!
Part 4: laying out your design
Next, use your tweezers (or bare hands if you are precise enough) to place your design on your pegboard. Feel free to experiment by moving beads around if you are creating your own design, or to change colors if you are working from an existing design.
Once you are happy with your earring design, you may either immediately duplicate it (if you have two peg boards) or iron this one before making the second one.
Part 5: Ironing
oI find that the ironing is the trickiest part, so I apologize if this section is a little long!
Once you have warmed your iron to medium heat, place the ironing paper over your design and pegboard. Begin ironing your design by placing the iron firmly on the wax paper and making small, quick circles across the surface. Avoid pushing too hard or lingering for too long on one area of the design; the goal is to evenly fuse the beads. Be careful about being to vigorous when ironing ; the beads can be easily knocked off of the peg board, and this is super annoying.
Continue ironing for about 10 seconds or until you feel the beads underneath become 'tacky'. Lift the iron, you should be able to see each bead through the translucent paper. You want to make sure that all of the beads are fused before flipping the design. You will want to leave the holes in the center of the beads visible; don't iron it too flat! Once you're happy with side one, flip the design over, leaving it attached to the wax paper.
Now, flip over your design, removing it from the pegboard but leaving it attached to the wax paper. Place a second sheet of wax paper on top of the design and repeat the ironing process until both sides appear the same.
Remove the finished perler figure from the wax paper and repeat all steps until you have 2 identical earrings.
Part 6: Applying the earring hardware
Next you will be making your finished perler figures into earrings. Wait for them to cool, and then prepare your jump rings, ear wires and pliers.
First, take both jump rings by holding them in one set of pliers and bending them open with the second set of pliers. This is somewhat tricky as first, but gets easier.
After the jump ring is open, insert it into a center top bead on your design, so that the open part is facing up. Now, place the ear wire onto the open jump ring. Keep in mind which direction you want the finished earring to face when inserted into the ear. Now, use one pair of pliers to re-close the jump ring. I find that it is easiest to line it up horizontally, and then seal it.
Make sure that the jump ring is closed tight enough to keep the ear wire in place, and your earring is complete! Repeat with the second earring.
Part 7: Done!
Excellent work! Your earrings are now complete and can be worn.
Here are some fun techniques to try in your future earrings:
If you make any earrings using this tutorial, please comment with links to what you've made- I'd love to see! Thanks again for reading <3
I have tons of styles of cute perler earrings available on my etsy shop, check them out!
Geeky Nintendo Perler Bead Earrings
Cute Snacks Perler Bead Earrings
Insect Perler Bead Earrings
90's Tech and Snacks Perler Bead Earrings
Birds Perler Bead Earrings
Creepy Cute Perler Bead Earrings
Cute Foods Perler Bead Earrings
Animals Perler Bead Earrings
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My Facebook Fan Page
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My Youtube Channel
Hey there Internet!
Today I'll be showing you how I painted a Legend of Zelda Ocarina of Time Watercolor painting. It features many enemies from the game, and was lots of fun to work on.
I'll break down the painting process Step-By-Step and also highlight some important techniques that I used in the painting along the way. More in-depth technique information will be designated by a Technique Spotlight title. Feel free to skip over these if you'd just like to see the painting process generally. So Let's get started with set-up!
For the sake of simplicity there is a glossary of terms at the end of this tutorial in case you are confused by any of my wording.
Part 1: Set up
Pelikan K12 Opaque Paint Set
I really like this watercolor set because it behaves like opaque gouache or watercolor depending upon how thick you apply it. I also like the range of colors and the moveable paint trays. The set also comes with a small tube of opaque white paint that comes in handy.
Pigma Sakura Micron Pens (Sizes 01 and 05)
These are basically the only pens I use. They're super water-proof, easy to find and come in many sizes.
Currys Synthetic Brushes (2500 Series Various Sizes)
I like these brushes as they are inexpensive and hold up well. They rarely get stray bristles and keep a point for a long time.
Drawing Pencil / Eraser / Pencil Sharpener
I'm not so picky about these things, but I like to use Staedtler pencils and products because they're easy to come by and good quality. I usually draw with a B3 and B Pencil.
If you're a beginner please purchase Watercolor paper, do not try to watercolor paint on any other surface, even expensive dry media paper. It just won't work. I use cold-press papers, usually around 80lb. Student-grade watercolor pads are fine as long as they are archival, I personally prefer Canson papers.
These are the supplies that I use for 90% of my watercolor paintings, but I also recommend Reeves gouache and watercolor sets for beginners.
Penciling and Inking:
I start painting once my inked image is completely done and cleaned up. For this tutorial I'll be focusing only on the painting aspect, but I'll quickly outline how I got to this point for your information.
I use a B3 pencil to sketch out the scene that I want, and then refine it down until I had enough of a pencil outline to work from with my ink pens. I usually keep my pencil drawing fairly rough, but still refined enough to double-check my perspective and such.
I outline the entire image using my Micron pens (sizes 01 and 05), following my initial pencil outlines. I initially go over most of the image using the 01 pen and then use the 05 pen to outline the edges of each character. This adds dimension to the lines and helps the characters pop. I'll go into inking further in a future tutorial. Once I'm happy with my inking I erase all of my pencil lines and I'm ready to paint!
Part 2: Flat color painting
For the first part of the painting, I want to fill each character with their base colors, without any shadow or further definition. For this I'll dive right into a technique, which basically explains how I do all of my painting.
Technique Spotlight: Color Fading
This technique is how I do the vast majority of my painting. It goes a little like this:
Step 1: Select a shape you'd like to fill with color, and select the side that you'd like to be the deepest in color.
Step 2: Fill the side that you'd like to be deepest in color with moderately dense paint. Only fill about 30% of the shape's total length.
Step 3: Clean off your brush entirely and dip it with clear water. Use the clear water to dilute the paint at the edge of the section that you just filled. Wipe your brush dry.
Step 4: Use the now dry, paintless brush to spread the water and diluted paint out. If you do this right you should be able to fade the color so that it is lightest at the other end of the shape. I repeat this basic technique with all of the shapes in the flat coloring phase of the painting.
part 2: flat color painting Continued
From this point on, I continue using the above technique, filling shapes with color and then fading out that color. This is how I fill most of my basic shapes, particularly on Link's body, which I want to look a bit more solid than the monsters.
Once I have Link's body and an enemy or two filled with color, this brings me to the second major technique that I use when flat coloring.
Technique Spotlight: Multi-Color Blending
In this painting I'll use this technique to fill most of the enemies. I use this tecnique to get a more 'soft' look. It allows me a blend several colors together in a loose, watery fashion while still staying inside of a shape's outline. It works something like this:
Step 1: Select a shape or area to fill, making sure that you are aware of it's edges.
Step 2: Select the first color you'd like to use, create a blend of that color, that is both deep in hue and watery enough to flow into surrounding colors. Fill a desired area with that color, do not allow it to dry or leave the shape's outline.
Step 3: Select a second color, again making a blend that is both deep in color and watery enough to flow into nearby colors. Paint it in nearby and into the first color, blending as much as desired. The two colors should flow into each other somewhat, you can experiment with the dryness level of each color. As a rule of thumb, the more dry the color, the less a new color will flow into it.
Step 4: Repeat step 3 as desired until you have the desired color range in your shape.
Step 5: Go around the edges of the shape with a dry, clean brush, blending the still-watery colors so that they just touch the outline. You should be left with a shape filled with a variety of colors that blend into each other in a loose, interesting-looking manner.
part 2: flat color painting continued
From here I'll continue to fill each enemy's body with the above technique, blending a variety of colors together to create a messy , watery effect in each shape.
Now that the enemies and Link and completely flat color, that is, filled with color but not shaded, that brings me to the next part.
Part 2: the background
In this part, I'll describe how I filled the background. I purposely painted the characters using bright colors, hoping that a dark background would make them pop even more. I also feel like having a nice dark background will add a more sinister touch to the finished painting, seeing as how it is filled with so many enemies.
I will be filling the background with fairly dark black paint. To do this, I start by picking a section of negative space, where no character is situated. I mix up my deep black paint, and begin filling the section, making sure to avoid actually touching the black outlines, while still getting as close as possible. This maintains the original black outlines that we spent lots of time on, and also creates a thin white line around all of the characters that makes them stand out even more.
When I get to the point where I'm about the deal with the edges of the painting, I use the color fade technique to make the black fade into the white, leaving a slight white border around the painting. I start by clearly defining an edge as seen above, while keeping the paint wet. I then use a wet, clean brush to fade out the black, as seen below. I repeat this all around the painting.
This brings me to a super quick but lifesaving technique that a lot of people forget they can do!
Technique Spotlight: Dabbing Out
This is an easy one. I use dabbing out very frequently when I feel like I've 'made a mistake' by either making a color too dark, or when two colors flow together in a way that I did not intend. You simply:
Step 1: Tear off a small piece of paper towel or similar material. Ball it up into a wedge shape so that it has a nice point.
Step 2: Pick a still wet section you'd like to fix and quickly dab out the paint using the paper towel.
Step 3 (optional): Use a wet, clean brush to add extra water to the mess-up, and dab it out again. This can be repeated to 'delete' large sections of your painting, even if it has already dried! Just work the water in a bit more into the dried sections, and the paint will eventually lift up.
part 2: the background Continued
That's actually it for our old pal background. You can see that the characters pop quite a bit more, now. The next step, though surprisingly quick, will really seal the deal.
Part 3: Shading
Light and shadow freak a lot of people out and I've never really understood why. If you're one of those people, I will repeat my usual advice: less is more. That is, keep it simple and don't try to re-work your shading much. With this painting, I'm going for a very toony or comic-esque style so I'm going to follow a pretty simple technique, which I'll describe briefly.
Basically for shading, you want to create and then use a deeper shade of the color you're adding shadow to. Yes, I said deeper, not darker. I personally make most of my shades by adding the complimentary color. IE: for shading Link's tunic I added red to green NOT black to green. I find this helps to keep the colors more saturated and less muddy. Of course, it's fine to add black if that is how you work.
From there, I just use my normal color fade technique to create areas of darkness, except I don't have lines to work from now so I have to be somewhat more careful. I add shadow wherever I'd like it, again, keeping it as simple as possible.
Once I'm done shading Link I move onto the enemies, using the exact same technique.
At this point, I'm happy with all of my shadows. For the final touches I use that little tube of China White gouache that comes with my watercolor set, and my very smallest brush to add some small highlights to important areas. Mostly Link's eyes, and the surfaces of things that seem slimy, like the tentacle and Biri's skin.
Part 4: Done! and terms
Here is the finished painting, I had a lot of fun working on it. Thanks so much for reading! If you found this tutorial helpful or have any questions, please let me know by commenting below, contacting me via social media or emailing me.
Have a deku-smooshing afternoon!
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Glossary of Terms:
Color- Usually when I say color, I'm referring to the color of paint.
Clean Brush - A brush with no paint on it.
Dabbing: Using a dry paper towel or other media to remove wet paint or water from the paper.
Dry- Paint that has already dried on the paper. Dry paint is harder to manipulate.
Fill- To completely "fill" a section of the painting with color. IE: a hat that is surrounded by a black outline, or a section I would like to shade that does not have an outline.
Fade- A gradient from one color to another: IE: Green to Light Green.
Wet- Paint that is still watery after being applied to the paper. Wet paint is easier to manipulate.
Flow - Could also be called 'bleed'. When two wet colors placed next to each other begin to 'join together'. Can be used intentionally to gain interesting effects or can be really obnoxious when not intended.
Gouache- a kind of paint, like watercolor but able to be used completely opaque.
Opacity/Opaque - How see-through something is, Opaque being not at all.
Loose vs. Tight: How refined a detail is in the painting. I usually use loose to refer to effects created by blending together multiple colors.
Shape- Any distinct area in the painting, either surrounded by an outline or not. IE: A hand surrounded by an outline that I want to paint fleshtone into.
I've been doing sketches in Sai that resemble graphite and chalk on brown paper, and I really like how they're turning out, so I thought I'd share my brush settings with you.
In the examples, I used a small pencil brush to do most of the sketching and line work, and a larger graphite brush to add some looser, larger shadows. Once I was done sketching in graphite, I created a second layer underneath and added the chalk, which I then smudged with the smudge brush to make the highlights appear smoother.
HINT: You can play with the color of the background 'paper' , as well as the chalk and graphite to produce a variety of effects and styles.
HINT: To create a larger graphite brush, turn the 'bristle' setting down, and the 'paper' setting up, and vice versa. Fiddle with these settings to configure different graphite and pastel-look brushes.
I hope this is helpful to you! Let me know what you make.
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